Product Feature: DOP Buffalo Mozzarella
I am excited to report that we have recently acquired authentic (“DOP” - I shall return to this) buffalo mozzarella for sale in the shop. A few thoughts, then, on why this is exciting, and why it may be worth giving it a try.
Firstly, I will say that when we call this cheese “Campania DOP Buffalo Mozzarella”, we say more than perhaps it seems. “DOP” stands for denominazione d’Origine Protetta: “protected designation of origin”. This is a strict characterization of authenticity, which indicates adherence to particular and exacting standards for both a product’s region of origin and method of production. Certain regions (or even certain families!) are chosen by relevant authorities to be capable of ensuring that these standards are diligently maintained, in order to preserve the food’s authenticity, quality, and regional specificity. DOP buffalo mozzarella is of particular merit, then, and not only for its quality or its history but for the precise intersection of these.
Let’s first take a look at its history. The water buffalo was introduced to Italy by the Moorish and Saracen invasion near the break of the 11th century AD. It found work as livestock in South-Central Italy where its broad hooves allowed it freedom of movement amidst the area’s marshy terrain (drawing carriages, ploughs, and the like). Production of cheese from their milk began as early the 12th century, but commercial availability took several hundred more years when the burgeoning mercantilism in Naples and Salerno allowed goods which were historically hyper-localized to circulate. Production methods were refined for generations thereafter, eventually receiving royal (Bourbon) support in the form of specialized experimental dairy farms.
After Italy’s unification in 1861 the production of buffalo mozzarella collapsed as much of the territory’s industry moved to the North. Regeneration was stifled during Mussolini’s reign, when many of the region’s marshes were filled to support the production of grain and livestock for military ambitions. After fascism’s defeat, the water buffalo returned to the lands which they had roamed across for centuries, and the production of buffalo mozzarella could once again be pursued in earnest.
Despite the twentieth century’s overwhelming tendency towards industrialization in farming, the production of DOP buffalo mozzarella continues to be accomplished with significant human contribution. Production is executed by expert casari (‘cheesemakers’) wade through inches of milk, manipulating piping-hot curds with calloused hands to shape the cheese with a dexterity honed and taught by generations of regional producers. These techniques have survived the collapse of industry and the ignorance of dictators, and will likely continue to thrive under the protection of the DOP label and the pride of the region’s cheesemakers.
This context indicates reasons for the product’s quality. The marshes provide a particular diet for the water buffalo, which imparts a characteristic profile which cannot be replicated by non-DOP producers. A distinct tanginess and complexity sets it apart from mozzarella made from cow’s milk, as does its higher moisture content. The latter makes it softer and creamier; buffalo mozzarella does not resist the bite but gives way to it, flooding the mouth with a fresh milkiness variously accented by the nutty and herbaceous notes imparted by the buffalo’s particular diet. Put this cheese in dishes which won’t overwhelm its subtlety: pasta with olive oil, salads with light dressing, gnocchi with tomato sauce, or crostini with a pinch of salt and a basil leaf. A trick: let the cheese come to room temperature before eating, or even soak it in a warm water for fifteen (or so) minutes to bring out its best.
All in all, buffalo mozzarella is a classic example of the significance of Italian food culture worldwide. Despite its global purchase (and an industry of crude imitators), this cheese — like so many Italian classics — connects its consumers to a vibrant and resilient regional culture. Despite new efficiencies and technologies, it is made in a way that generations past would likely recognize. It is sought after for just this specificity, and graces dishes of all kinds with a character that can come from nowhere else.
- Michael Primrose, Store Manager
